Restaurant Review: La Boca

Published: Sunday, November 9, 2025 at 11:00 am

La Boca: A Glamorous Setting, Disappointing Cuisine

New York City's dining scene has welcomed La Boca, the latest venture from renowned chef Francis Mallmann. The restaurant, located in the Faena hotel, aims to capture the essence of Buenos Aires' vibrant La Boca neighborhood. The interior is designed to be a luxurious experience, featuring red velvet, pink roses, and golden accents, with live music adding to the ambiance.

However, despite the appealing setting, the culinary execution at La Boca falls short. The review details multiple disappointing dishes, including bland empanadas, a mushy and flavorless "Tower" of beef, and under-seasoned parrillada. Even the signature domino potatoes, a highlight of Mallmann's cookbook, are described as a pale imitation of the original. The lack of open flames, due to New York City fire codes, seems to have impacted the authenticity of the fire-centric cuisine Mallmann is known for.

The menu offers a range of Argentinean staples, including steak and pasta. The reviewer notes the spaghetti pomodoro was overpowered by olive oil, and the gnocchi was burnt. The reviewer also mentions the under-seasoning of the dishes and the lack of salt.

Despite the culinary shortcomings, the restaurant's atmosphere is praised. The reviewer describes a "placeless" and "cocoonlike" experience, enhanced by live music and attentive service.

BNN's Perspective: While the restaurant's ambiance is undeniably appealing, the significant disconnect between the setting and the food quality is concerning. La Boca's high price point and the chef's reputation create expectations that the current offerings simply do not meet. It seems the restaurant prioritizes aesthetics over substance, which may not be sustainable in the competitive New York dining landscape.

Keywords: La Boca, Francis Mallmann, Restaurant Review, Argentinean Cuisine, New York City, Faena Hotel, Dining Experience, Food Review, Steak, Parrillada, Domino Potatoes, Restaurant Criticism.

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